All from Greece

Feta is a brined curd cheese traditionally made in Greece with ewe’s and goat’s milk. On October 14, 2002 it was officially decided that feta cheese is a Greek product, which can be produced only in certain parts of Greece with strictly specified regulations. Its production is a limited to the Greek areas of Macedonia, Thrace, Epiros, Sterea Hellas, Peloponese, and the island of Lesvos. These areas have a history of herding cultures, which is why feta production originated in these regions. The production of feta is allowed in only mountainous regions, where fertilizers are not used. This preserves its organic maintenance.

The European Commission registered the Greek “Feta” cheese as a Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) and producers in other Member States or not respecting these specifications were given a maximum 5-year transitional period to change the name of their “feta” cheese or to stop production. This transitional period has ended by the end of 2007 and since the beginning of 2008 “feta” is officialy registered as Greek only trademark. It has to be noted that outside the EU, cheeses sold as ‘feta’ may include any kind of milk and be produced in any way. Practically speaking people can sell any cheese as “feta” outside the EU!

Other nations began their production of feta in order to appeal to their Greek immigrant market. As feta cheese’s popularity grew production spread to many other EU countries. 

The implications of the PDO decision has caused trouble for certain farmers. Their production and sales are threatened by the PDO specialized status of Greek feta. Greece is the number one producer of the original feta, and most of this is sold and consumed domestically. This shows how specific this cheese is to Greek traditional food.

To get an idea of the financial dimension of this decision one has to consider that the total market for “feta” called cheese in 2006 was about 1 billion Euro. 50% of that market was controlled by Dutch, Bulgarian, Romanian and Danish companies although Germany and France also played an important role.

The production of feta cheese in Greece has roots of 6,000 years. Feta production has been linked with Greek history and literature since ancient times. Denmark has made feta since 1963, the Netherlands since 1981, and Germany since 1985. As Denmark, Germany, and France produce large amounts of “feta” for export purposes the battle over feta rights had been created.

Greece has placed quality regulations on the production of their feta since 1935. Denmark did not regulate feta until 1963, and these regulations differ in comparison to Greek production methods. Greek feta production is restricted to primarily sheep milk and some goat milk, while other countries use cow milk in the process. These countries also use coloring agents to change the yellowish tint produced from cow’s milk to a pure whiter form of goat and sheep milk. The subsistence of these goat and sheep is specific to the dry climatic conditions of certain regions in Greece, where particular graze feeds these animals. The methods of production are also unique to Greece. In a report, it was found that most of feta marketing uses the image of Greek origin, such as the Greek flag, to sell their product.

In 2001, only three EU countries compose 97% of the production of goat’s milk including Greece, Spain, and France. These statistics indicate that Greece is one of the largest goat milk producers, which is a main component in the regulation of feta cheese production. Other countries use cow’s milk because they do not have the same resources as Greece. Using cow’s milk in feta production makes its color yellowish, which then has to be artificially dyed in order to get the pure white feta color, which is natural to Greek feta.

The competition of feta cheese from other countries disappears gradually, although certain nations are not yet willing to give up the fight because they stand to lose a great deal of money from this decision.

Feta is an aged cheese, commonly produced in blocks, and has a slightly grainy texture. It is used as a table cheese, as well as in salads, pastries and in baking, notably in the popular phyllo-based dishes tyropita (”cheese pie”). Feta is also an important ingredient of Greek salad. Feta, like most cheeses, can also be served cooked; it is sometimes grilled as part of a sandwich or as a salty alternative to other cheeses in a variety of dishes.

Feta is salted and cured in a brine solution (based on water or whey) for several months. Feta dries out rapidly when removed from the brine. Feta cheese is white, usually formed into square cakes, and can range from soft to semi-hard, with a tangy, salty flavor that can range from mild to sharp. The cured cheese easily crumbles. Its fat content can range from 30 to 60 percent; most is around 45 percent milk fat. Most feta cheese has a pH of 4.4 to 4.9.

Producing Feta

In the production process the fresh goat and sheep milk is heated to 35°C (95° F) at which time rennet (rennet is an animal product) is added, causing the milk to curdle and coagulate. After separation the curd is cut and the whey is drained off by placing the moist curds in a cloth bag that is twisted oh-so-gently to compress them before being placed in special moulds for completion of the draining process. After solidification the cheese’s surface is dry salted and a thin mould develops on the cheese curd. The cheese is then placed in wooden or metal vessels (barrels) containing a 7% NaCl brine solution.

These vessels then spend 15 days in initial ripening rooms where the temperature is kept at 18°C (64°F) and the relative humidity not below 85%. Further ripening then occurs for not less than the remainder of two months (around 45 days) at 24°C (75°F) and the relative humidity again not below 85%.

Consuming Feta

While the original feta cheese is stored in rectangular pieces of 1-2 kg, preserved in brine in barrels or tins holding between 25 and 50kg, it is most commonly sold in supermarkets in prepackaged pieces. Alternatively, it may be possible at a decent delicatessen to purchase directly from the barrel.

The first food that is brought to the table during a Greek lunch is a fresh slice (not a cube!) of salty feta with olive oil and oregano. One way to reduce the saltiness is to soak the cheese in fresh cold water or even milk for a few minutes before use.
Otherwise, so-called Greek salads aside, authentic feta is delicious crumbled over salads, especially when served with sliced tomatoes, sprinkled with olive oil and fresh herbs.

Furhter, as reported at ScienceDaily eating Feta cheese made from raw milk in small seaside tavernas when you are on holiday in Greece could be a good way to combat food poisoning, according to researchers speaking April 3, 2008 at the Society for General Microbiology’s 162nd meeting being held at the Edinburgh International Conference Centre.

2008 the year of Feta

In the pursuit of more clients across the world, the Ministry of Development in association with the Ministry of Rural Development and Food and the Ministry of Economy and Finance have launched an international campaign by declaring 2008 the year of feta cheese. The main target is to promote the product abroad and increase the Greek market share of white cheese. Greece’s feta exports exceed 40,000 tones per year compared with a total international white cheese consumption of about 650-700,000 tones. Furthermore, despite the decision by the European Court of Justice to recognize feta cheese as a protected designation of origin, the global market of white cheese is still dominated by Denmark and Germany.

Finally, did you know that you can make it yourself by using some common household ingredients? It is an easy, fascinating process with a great result!

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